Black Beaches

Weekend tripping around the south and Reykjavik by Kevin Hatcher

How do you top going to the Westfjords? Well, it is difficult, but there is always something new to look at in Iceland and a long overdue trip to Vík í Mýrdal and the surrounding area could be a good start.

Travelling South.

I had a few friends visit us here from Scotland. It all started from the bus station in Reykjavik on Thursday morning. We traveled south east along the tourist trail of Route 1 to Vík í Mýrdal. 

 

 

 

 

Shane under Gljúfrabúi waterfall.

Our first stop was the iconic Seljalandsfoss waterfall and a smaller secret (ish) waterfall just 10 minutes away called Gljúfrabúi. This smaller waterfall is tucked away in a gorge on the same length of cliffs that Seljalandsfoss is located, but with less tour buses.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When we reappeared out of the waterfall gorge we heard sirens and noticed a helicopter coming into land at Seljalandsfoss. Apparently someone had climbed up the side of the waterfall on the steep embankment and fallen and broken his leg.

A teenager broke his leg and was air lifted away from the Seljalandsfoss area.

We left the craziness of the Seljalandsfoss area and headed toward Vik, only to stop at the glacier cafe just off route 1. It was only a short walk up to the head of Sólheimajökul glacier, which was awesome.

Is it cold Shane?

Sólheimajökul Glacier.

We then drove onto Dyrhólaey lighthouse via the sketchiest 4x4 track ever. Seriously, I had the car on three wheels at one point and it is a Skoda Octavia rather than a proper 4x4! It was cool! Now, I did not take any pictures of the lighthouse because I couldn't get the right composition without a million tourists in the way. Needless to say, it is a great place to visit and has some great views along the coast.

The view along the black beach towards Vik.

Well, after checking out the lighthouse and awesome views we drove just south of Vik and then turned north up a dirt track and drove for 14km to Þakgil camp site. It started raining on the way to the campsite, but that did not dampen our spirits as the landscape was out-of-this-world. 

Looking out over a very wet valley at þórsmörk from the road.

It took us about 50 minutes to get to the campsite and it was great fun driving, and well worth it when we arrived. The campsite was a large flat field space surrounded by hills on all but three sides. What a great find!

Double Kev at Þakgil camp site. Thanks Shane for the photo.

We pitched my tent and made our way into a cave...yes a cave...to make dinner and chat to the other local tourists. 

Camping with this guy.

The next morning we packed, had breakfast, coffee...two coffees...and headed back to Vik and then on to Reykjavik. We did stop briefly at the Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach and the basalt columns, but the weather was still dull and grey, so we hit the road just after a tourist bus spewed forth its contents of visitors. 

We did however make one last stop before heading back to Reykjavik, and if you have been reading my blogs you will know I am big fan of...HOT POOLS! Seljavallalaug outdoor swimming pool is just off the main road and down a dirt road and then a walk...so it does require a bit of navigation and planning to get there. When we got to the pool it was lovely and sunny again with the clouds rolling over us and bright patches of sunshine pouring through onto the mountain side. Very peaceful.

Seljavallalaug from above. That is Shane's head just on the left side of the pool.

Shane taking his yearly bath in the pool.

After a nice soak we walked back to the car and had lunch and headed back to Reykjavik to meet another friend who had just arrived, Becs. 

After a good dinner and some wine we decided to stay up late to watch the northern midnight sunset over the horizon from the Sólfar and what a sunset! You should check out my new updated Sólfar image on my site too!

Sunset over Reykjavik Harbour.

That was one of the best sunsets I have seen in a long time and it was shared with great friends.

The next day we hiked up one of my favorite local hills, Móskarðshnjúkar, which is just outside Reykjavik. The location feels like you are in the wilds of Iceland for very little traveling time.

What a great hike, and the weather was nice for all of it too.

The last day of the weekend the three of us (Aimee left for the UK) hiked up a small hill just south of Reykjavik called Helgafell and visited the geothermal fields at Krisuvik. It is a great place for a very short walk around some amazingly colourful geothermal activity.

Geothermal activity at Krisuvik.

Shane at Krisuvik.

That last night we ate and drank in downtown Reykjavik. We managed to get the best seats outside the Sæta Svínið Gastropub in the sunshine.

What a great way to finish a great weekend! and now for next weekend...ferries, the Westmann Islands, and the largest colony of puffins in the world! I can't wait.

Cheers,

Kev

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Airplanes and black beaches in the dark. by Kevin Hatcher

How do you top the Northern lights? It is very difficult and unfortunately conditions have not been right to see them again since. The skies have been cloudy and the Northern light activity has been low, so no more Northern lights at the moment. However...

Skógafoss and the iconic airplane at Sólheimasandur

Map and directions to Skogafoss and the abbanonded airplane site

Map and directions to Skogafoss and the abbanonded airplane site

Time for another long drive to visit the Skógafoss waterfall and the abandoned plane wreck. The waterfall is about two and half hours drive from Reykjavik and is Iceland's biggest waterfall. The waterfall is very impressive but is also very busy with tourists. It was around 6pm at this point and is the highlight of any visit to Iceland and so it is to be expected.

Skógafoss from the river bed, Iceland.

Skógafoss from the river bed, Iceland.

Skógafoss from the viewing platform, Iceland.

Skógafoss from the viewing platform, Iceland.

After a few pictures, from the bottom of the waterfall I walked up to the top where there is a viewing platform. It gives you a real birds eye view of the falls and how big they really are. 

Time was marching on, so it was onto the main event!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A five-minute drive from the waterfall is the car park for the abandoned airplane site and the main reason for this particular trip. The site was accessed via driving in a 4x4 down to the crash site, but tourists kept driving off trail and getting stuck which left unsightly tracks on the black beach.  There is now a car park next to the main road and a 2.5 mile walk down to the site.

Looking back up the long walk back to the car park. Iceland.

Click the image for a full screen image.

I was packed with my camera gear, GPS tracker, and a head lamp as I wanted to get the sunset, and knew I would be walking back in the dark. It was a longer walk than expected or even noted in any online resource that I could find, but it was worth it. The skies where very cloudy and it didn't look like I would get any sunset or natural light, but I was wrong. Just as I arrived the sun burst out from under the clouds and gave me and a few others a brief window of amazing light to take a few pictures. I managed to get a couple of pictures.  

The picture below and the latest picture on my site.

Sunset over the abandoned plane on Slheimasandur. Iceland.

Click the image for a full screen image.

WOW! What a cool place! Worth the walk down there, but if you do go make sure you can get back. I had been tracking myself on a GPS app, and once the sun had set it was pitch black. The plane is in a dip or hollow, and the trail up to it ends above the edge of the hollow. This means that you can't really see the trail even when the sun is up. When I started walking back I initially did not use my GPS app and walked the wrong way. I couldn't find the trail. So I reached for my GPS app and found the trail again, and walked back in the dark with my head lamp. A few others did not do this and I saw them walking around the beach area trying to find the trail. They did eventually follow my light and find the trail, but if I had not been there it would have been a much longer evening for them.

What a great place. I will return if only to get some better pictures of the waterfall, and hike into the mountains! 

See ya,

Kev

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